By WhoThCares
Dec 08, 2019
First step collect and assemble vehicle of choosing, for this I choose the new Hawk set for this.
Step two gather paints that are military in color or in color of your own choosing. For my vehicle I used testors camo drab green, matt black, and armypainter gunmetal.
Step 3 primer (not used in my process) helps get the model ready for painting. If your are painting a vehicle made out of many mixed matched parts in differing colors a good primer will make the whole model uniform and ready for the base coat.
Step 4 base coat with one main color. Now I just wanted to remind anyone following along that I am by no means a painting sage and this is me just getting a crack at the hobby and sharing with you my technique that works well for me; so feel free to deviate from my ways as you see fit, you might stumble into a technique that’s better than mine! Base costs give the model or vehicle in this case a base color that later we will change to make a desired look. 1 to 2 coats for the base coat should work well for for most models being painted. I used 2 coats to base coat my hawk and that makes it that I will have a nice military color that later on in the process can weather to make the vehicle look like it's been in an fight.
Step 5 weathering with silver on hard points creates the idea and feeling that underneath the base coat color the vehicle is metal airframe. At this point light applications and heavy applications shows wear and tear on the body of the vehicle. Parts that normally would be touched or moved a lot in use will have more silver marks around them such as areas closest to the engine propeller blades. Heavy applications should be where weapon damage scratches and gouges would be after a fight.
Step 6 is where black pain is dry bushed to create the scorch marks and overall smoke and oil smears that would also happen during battle. How this is applied varies on how much you would like your vehicle to be battle scarred. Additionally if desired a wash over the vehicle in a black or brown wash will help darken the vehicle for further weathering.
Finally after all this you should have a nice model that looks like its seen battle and not the bright tosh look it started out as from mega.
@ShlubCustoms feel free to add any additional thoughts and steps you think I may have not thought of. Model painter to model painter.
Step two gather paints that are military in color or in color of your own choosing. For my vehicle I used testors camo drab green, matt black, and armypainter gunmetal.
Step 3 primer (not used in my process) helps get the model ready for painting. If your are painting a vehicle made out of many mixed matched parts in differing colors a good primer will make the whole model uniform and ready for the base coat.
Step 4 base coat with one main color. Now I just wanted to remind anyone following along that I am by no means a painting sage and this is me just getting a crack at the hobby and sharing with you my technique that works well for me; so feel free to deviate from my ways as you see fit, you might stumble into a technique that’s better than mine! Base costs give the model or vehicle in this case a base color that later we will change to make a desired look. 1 to 2 coats for the base coat should work well for for most models being painted. I used 2 coats to base coat my hawk and that makes it that I will have a nice military color that later on in the process can weather to make the vehicle look like it's been in an fight.
Step 5 weathering with silver on hard points creates the idea and feeling that underneath the base coat color the vehicle is metal airframe. At this point light applications and heavy applications shows wear and tear on the body of the vehicle. Parts that normally would be touched or moved a lot in use will have more silver marks around them such as areas closest to the engine propeller blades. Heavy applications should be where weapon damage scratches and gouges would be after a fight.
Step 6 is where black pain is dry bushed to create the scorch marks and overall smoke and oil smears that would also happen during battle. How this is applied varies on how much you would like your vehicle to be battle scarred. Additionally if desired a wash over the vehicle in a black or brown wash will help darken the vehicle for further weathering.
Finally after all this you should have a nice model that looks like its seen battle and not the bright tosh look it started out as from mega.
@ShlubCustoms feel free to add any additional thoughts and steps you think I may have not thought of. Model painter to model painter.