The shaky hands have struck again. I found an antishake feature on my camera though, so it shouldn't be a problem anymore.
I had a large topic typed up with a step by step, but the post didn't go through and I can't be bothered to type it again so here is the abbreviated version:
Recolors:
This is the first step and it's simple. figure out which parts need to change colors, mix up paint, and paint over those parts. Be sure that you have the model entirely broken down first, as shown in part 1). For this Jeep, I recolored the floorboards and the engine compartment into a flat metallic gray. The same was also done for the drive train. I also repainted the machine gun
Fine Details:
This is when you paint the small parts of the model to make them stand out. For this Jeep, I painted the bolts and tire rims in shades of silver and metallic black. I also repainted the engine with historically inaccurate red and gold. The most important part of painting any model is to go with what looks best if you aren't going for 101% accuracy. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
Silver Drybrushing:
Different from weathering, a good light silver drybrush can make any plastic look like it's brushed metal. Lightly coat your brush in silver, and wipe as much paint off as you can onto a non-model surface until you just leave faint streaks of silver. Then begin to brush the model with what's left. Your goal is not to make "scratches" on the model, you just want to leave a thin layer of metallic flake and shine. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
Black Drybrush:
Same Process as silver drybrushing. This will slightly darken the model and will also tone down the silver. This is also the step to apply a wash if you want to. Feel free to leave areas darker than others as part of the weathering process. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
Rust:
This step is optional, but it adds realism.
Mix up some metallic matte orange. Apply it lightly to sharp edges and corners, but not as lightly as a drybrush. You don't want to drybrush it, but you don't want the brush to be soaking wet with paint either. Go nuts with it on the chassis, where rust usually forms first. It also helps to use an exceptionally stiff brush for this. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
"Scratches:"
Get a thin brush (I recommend a 50/0 brush, but you can do it with a 10/0 if you are careful). You want the brush to be wet with paint for this. Rapidly drag the tip of the brush over small areas of the model like you do when hatching and cross-hatching a drawing. Don't worry if the lines aren't straight. Most scratches aren't. For added realism, put scratches on top of spots where you have added rust earlier. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
Episode 1 will be concluded tomorrow when I explain how to do mud splatters.
Also, I didn't paint today, but I did kitbash together something big. Really big (for a figure). He will be one of the figures I paint in the "painting a kitbashed figure" episodes.
I had a large topic typed up with a step by step, but the post didn't go through and I can't be bothered to type it again so here is the abbreviated version:
Recolors:
This is the first step and it's simple. figure out which parts need to change colors, mix up paint, and paint over those parts. Be sure that you have the model entirely broken down first, as shown in part 1). For this Jeep, I recolored the floorboards and the engine compartment into a flat metallic gray. The same was also done for the drive train. I also repainted the machine gun
Fine Details:
This is when you paint the small parts of the model to make them stand out. For this Jeep, I painted the bolts and tire rims in shades of silver and metallic black. I also repainted the engine with historically inaccurate red and gold. The most important part of painting any model is to go with what looks best if you aren't going for 101% accuracy. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
Silver Drybrushing:
Different from weathering, a good light silver drybrush can make any plastic look like it's brushed metal. Lightly coat your brush in silver, and wipe as much paint off as you can onto a non-model surface until you just leave faint streaks of silver. Then begin to brush the model with what's left. Your goal is not to make "scratches" on the model, you just want to leave a thin layer of metallic flake and shine. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
Black Drybrush:
Same Process as silver drybrushing. This will slightly darken the model and will also tone down the silver. This is also the step to apply a wash if you want to. Feel free to leave areas darker than others as part of the weathering process. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
Rust:
This step is optional, but it adds realism.
Mix up some metallic matte orange. Apply it lightly to sharp edges and corners, but not as lightly as a drybrush. You don't want to drybrush it, but you don't want the brush to be soaking wet with paint either. Go nuts with it on the chassis, where rust usually forms first. It also helps to use an exceptionally stiff brush for this. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
"Scratches:"
Get a thin brush (I recommend a 50/0 brush, but you can do it with a 10/0 if you are careful). You want the brush to be wet with paint for this. Rapidly drag the tip of the brush over small areas of the model like you do when hatching and cross-hatching a drawing. Don't worry if the lines aren't straight. Most scratches aren't. For added realism, put scratches on top of spots where you have added rust earlier. Let it dry before moving on to the next part.
Episode 1 will be concluded tomorrow when I explain how to do mud splatters.
Also, I didn't paint today, but I did kitbash together something big. Really big (for a figure). He will be one of the figures I paint in the "painting a kitbashed figure" episodes.